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There was not much to blog about once we left Santiago. We thought we were going to Finisterre to spend two nights by the ocean but we ended up in a lovely B&B far from the sea or any village. We took two taxi rides for food otherwise I knitted and Charlie read. Not what we were expecting and a bit of a let down but it was quiet and we did not walk!

Friday was spent waiting in the Santiago train station and traveling back to Madrid. Saturday we walked the streets of that very beautiful city and enjoyed Spanish hot chocolate and churros. We checked out

the royal palace and wandered through the Plaza Mayor. We probably should have visited a museum or taken a tour but we were in a bit of shock being surrounded by such crowds after 24 days of walking on country roads and up and down mountain trails.

This morning we headed home. First there was a two hour flight to London followed by an eight hour flight to Ottawa where Suzanne was waiting for us. Little did we know that the best part of the trip was waiting for us on Bird Street! All of the children and grandchildren were waiting to welcome us home! The perfect ending to an amazing adventure! 

Another mass

Yesterday morning began with a guided tour of the old city of Santiago with a lovely Spanish woman named Maria. She was a great source of information we would never have found in guide books. Near the end of the tour she stopped and spoke in rapid Spanish to a man passing us on the street. She then turned to us and said he was a spy! A spy for what? He is one of the eight men who work the pulleys in the cathedral to swing the large butofumerio and he had just told her that it was going to swing again that day. We soon wrapped up the tour and we're off to get prime seats for the big event. As amazing as the sight was at the first mass this was even more thrilling! We were seated directly under its path and a few times I actually felt like I should duck.

After mass and more good byes we were off to Finisterre. During the Middle Ages pilgrims did not stop once they reached Santiago but walked in to Finnesterre. They thought they were at the end of the earth and once they got there they burned all their clothes. I am wondering if there was a good shop in town to buy new clothes for the return trip? 

Early in our trip planning Charlie said there was no way he was walking to Finnesterre and I am very grateful that one person in this marriage has some common sense since I seem to have none!

We left Santiago by taxi at 1:30 headed for what we both thought would be a relaxing stay near the ocean. I am not sure how it happened but we are now in a beautiful farm house in the country 8 miles from Finnesterre. Charlie just asked me if I wanted to walk five miles into Muxia. Could he be serious?

Lava cola

The day started in a wet drizzle and the rain quickly got heavier and stayed with us all the way to Lavacolla. The good news was that we only walked 15k or about nine miles. We got to our hotel about one and after warm showers, dry clothes and a great lunch it was siesta time. Such a treat! I even had time to knit!

Today Lavacolla is the location of the Santiago airport. The word Lavacolla is Spanish for " wash your private parts!" During the Middle Ages Christians seldom bathed and they made fun of the Jews and Muslims who practiced better hygiene. Because they had walked for up to six months without washing they were a pretty smelly group by the time they reached this point. In honor of St. James they would stop here and bathe before entering Santiago. I am sure St. James was happy they did! Everyday there is a pilgrim mass at noon in the Santiago Cathedral. This cathedral has the largest incense burner in the world called the Botafumeiro. The incense burner was originally used to fumigate the smelly disease ridden pilgrims. Because the burner is so large it takes six attendants to raise it and swing it so it is not used everyday. We have our fingers crossed that tomorrow it will be swinging at mass.If you have watched the movie The Way you saw the burner in action. After mass we will go to the Pilgrim Office to show our credentials and get our Compostela. Charlie plans to frame his! We are staying in an old monastery in Santiago, should be an amazing end to our 300 mile trek.

Yesterday my post was about all the ways you could get to Santiago and I forgot horseback. Today we were passed by our first rider and his horse! Once when we were unsure which way to turn we started following the horses prints in the mud.

One more sleep and our adventure will be over. I am not sure how my body will adjust to not walking 12-15 miles a day! 

Many ways to Santiago

Before we left for Spain Charlie and I watched a documentary called Six Ways to Santiago. It traced the path of six different people on their 500 mile journey. One woman walked it pushing her four year old son in a stroller! I can not figure out how she did that unless she stayed on the highway.

As we walked today I realized that there are way more than six ways to get to Santiago. Most of the friends we have made on this trip have walked all 500 miles from St. Jean. I am in awe of their stamina! Occasionally we have met people like us who jumped on at different cities and have also clocked many kilometers. Many others started a few days ago in Sarria and are walking the last 100k. Some started in St. Jean and now have injuries that prevent them from walking all day everyday but they continue by taking a taxi part of each day and walking the rest. These are determined people. Two days ago we were chatting with two men from Texas who started in St. Jean. They walked 100k and quit and got on a bus to Sarria and are walking the last 100. I guess it was harder than they thought.

The next and least popular group are the bikers! They share most of the same paths as the walkers but are not a thoughtful group. They come tearing down the trails and with no warning nearly run over the unsuspecting walkers. There should be a rule that they need to ring a bell or shout out some kind of warning. A very few do give some warning. Everyday Charlie smiles an evil smile and threatens to stick his pole in their spokes. That would be very unpilgrim like behavior so I think they are idle threats.

The last large group are the tour group pilgrims that have appeared since Sarria. The groups we have seen are all dressed alike in green shirts and yellow scarves. The tour bus takes its passengers to different points along the trail and they walk for a few miles and then hop back on the bus. We saw one group of such travelers playing cards at a cafe, I guess walking was not in the cards for them. Rumor has it that they all get off at some point and walk into Santiago which means our last steps might be with a large crowd. Whether we walk in with a crowd or stagger in alone we will have done it our way which is the only way a person can do it! Buen Camino for two more days!

Rough day on the Camino

Today started out like every other day. Up at 7:15, breakfast and on the trail by about 8:20. Up hill and down hill we went not making much progress. After two hours I think we had covered about three miles! We stopped for a rest and moved on to the first big town whose name I can not recall but it started with an M. We stopped for lunch and things started downhill from there. I really needed to use the ladies room so I dropped my backpack and headed toward the bathrooms. I looked up and thought I saw a figure in a dress. I used the facilities and I did wonder what those funny sink like things were but washed my hands and left the area to enjoy my lunch. It was only when I saw Charlie head off to the bathroom that I realized I had used the men's room! Lucky no man decided to use it at the same time!

We set off after lunch for what looked like about a five mile walk to our B&B. The walk went on and on and on. About 4:15 Charlie started cracking jokes and I started to laugh but the laugh quickly turned to tears. We had been walking for almost 8 hours. I wonder is it worth it to stop?

After my breakdown we soon arrived at our resting place for tonight, Casa Milia. It is a comfortable enough place but it is rather chilly here and it seems Spainards do not believe in heat. Dinner comes with our room and was billed as authentic Galacian food. Believe me it won't be coming to a restaurant near you very soon. Course one was a watery soup, course two was a plate of roasted peppers, course three was some kind of beef, I am afraid it might have been cows cheek which is a favorite here. Dessert was the very popular flan. That was the best part of dinner except for the wine I drank to try and warm me up. I must keep telling myself " three more days!" I sure wish I had a pair of red slippers like Dorothy so I could click my heels together and magically arrive in Santiago!

Lessons from the Camino

The Camino has taught me two lessons so far. The first lesson is about stuff. The majority of people walking the Camino are true pilgrims, they carry all of their possessions on their backs and they have no reservations in hotels. These pilgrims start walking before daylight so that they can get where they are going early enough to get a bed in an alburgue for 5€. The bed is usually a bunk bed in a huge room with dozens of other pilgrims and the bathrooms and showers are shared with both sexes. They get little sleep because of all the snoring from their roommates.  Charlie would not even consider such an option. We not only are staying in hotels but we have suitcases that are transferred each day. I have from day one hated my suitcase. Everyday I end up repacking it trying to be more efficient but it doesn't work and the next night finds me reorganizing again. I have finally decided that this suitcase is a metaphor for my life, I have too much stuff! When I get home the purge will begin and unnecessary stuff is going to be given away and no new stuff is coming in unless we really need it!

The second lesson was realized after yesterday's walk. I am a bit of a slow learner since it took me 20 days of walking to learn! From day one we have started walking no later than 8:30 and we have walked straight through not stopping except for a pit stop or a snack from our backpacks. We arrive exhausted and I am nearly crippled. Last night my legs hurt so much they burned so we decided to try something new. We knew today was a 15 mile walk so we stopped at 5 miles and had cocoa and pastries, after 10 miles we had bread and soup. What a difference those rest periods made! As I walked today I realized that the approach I was taking to walking is the same one I have always followed all my life. I always think I need to do too much too fast. I say yes to everything anyone asks of me and wonder why I have headaches and high blood pressure. Did I need to walk 300 miles to learn these lessons? It will be hard to change these life long habits but this pilgrim is going to try. About 42 miles to go! 

Galicia

On Monday, just before we reached the top of the mountain we entered into an area of Spain known as Galicia and Santiago is the capital city of Galicia. Galicia is very very different from the Meseta where our walk began. This area of Spain has a strong Celtic heritage and the land is often compared to the western part of Ireland. The scenery is spectacle and almost too beautiful to imagine. Everywhere you turn the vistas are breathtaking. The weather is wet and because of that everything is very very green. In the Meseta farmers grow wheat and corn and sunflowers, this area is primarily dominated by dairy farms. The Camino path passes by farms all day and a walker needs to pay close attention to the path or it is easy to step in a pile of cow poop. Besides the manure the paths are also littered with chestnuts. The spiky pods are everywhere and you will often see old ladies from the village gathering the nuts. Fog is a constant in this part of Spain. From the time we reached the mountain top through today's walk we have spent part of each day walking through thick fog. In every village you will see laundry hanging on a clothesline but I question how it will ever dry in the damp moist air

? We are now less than 60 miles from Santiago and that is good because my energy is waning and my legs are screaming for a break. Each night I go to bed thinking there is no way I can walk the next day and a miracle happens and the next morning we are off again!